Less Sole, More Soul
It's time to get grounded.
We’ve always had a soft spot for a good ugly shoe. But last week, the Chanel Resort 2027 show in Biarritz took over the internet because of something that’s hardly a shoe at all. It left us with questions: is a shoe still a shoe when it barely has a sole? And if a higher heel brings you closer to heaven, does a thinner sole bring you back down to earth?
When the first images of the non sandal came in, a delicate half sole with slender straps fastening at the ankle, gliding across the plush carpet of the Casino Municipal, we could almost feel the sand between our toes. It sparked debate, to say the least. But being Chanel, the conversation shifted just as quickly. How much are they going to charge for something that barely qualifies as a shoe? And perhaps more intriguingly, who exactly is meant to wear it, and when? We’ve seen it called the perfect beach wedding guest shoe, which feels both terribly chic and completely absurd. It sits in that sweet spot between impractical and irresistible, and we can’t help but be intrigued.
Chanel seems to be catching a wave that’s been forming for seasons now, where less shoe is more. We have been writing about the Balenciaga Zero (or here and here), the highly minimalist barefoot shoe from the Fall 2025 collection, that wraps around the heel and big toe. Even the grip sock, once strictly associated with snotty toddlers in indoor playgrounds, has become an object of desire. The Coperni x Barreletics Grip Sock, first introduced on the SS26 runway, exists somewhere between body and shoe. Created for studio training, from Reformer to Megaformer, we can’t help but want it under all our swimwear, paired with a good short, or peeking out from under a knitted T-shirt dress (obsessed) too.
The Row might be the force behind this footwear moment, the first to introduce mesh sock ballet flats and paper thin house slippers (or here, both on sale) our chiropractor would strongly advise against. For its Resort 2026 show, it abandoned the concept of a shoe altogether, sending out looks finished only with stockings, no shoes. Now that is what we call a grounding experience.
Alaïa’s fishnet sandals or its Perfo Flat, that’s made out of one piece of perforated leather, barely stands between you and the ground. While the invisible thong sandal (or here) by Christopher Esber pushes the idea even further, flirting with the concept of walking barefoot. Herbert Levine, a heritage footwear house we’ve written about before, introduced mesh boots that reveal the full silhouette of the foot. The rise of Vibram FiveFingers and tabi silhouettes, like Maison Margiela and Christen says the same thing. We want to feel grounded.
All of these designs, at the very least, come with an actual sole. Matthieu Blazy takes it to the next level. Chanel draws us into that carefree feeling, barefoot on a sunny beach. Toes touching the sand, less sole, more soul. But instead of actually going barefoot, we’re buying into the illusion of it. And as it turns out, feeling grounded doesn’t come cheap.
Previous read: The Perfect T-shirt(s)
Follow us on Instagram and/or visit The Ceiling Wardrobe.
The Ceiling may earn a commission if you make a purchase through one of the links above.