New York Brands I'll Be Keeping A Close Eye On
Lara's love letter to the eternal, inspiring grittiness of NYC style and the independent brands that embody it.
Lara: When arriving in New York for fashion week after traveling from Amsterdam, those first moments in the city always feel the most exhilarating. Meeting a longtime friend, grabbing coffee from my favorite spot, and taking my usual walk through Central Park—it all feels familiar yet exciting. I was eager to be back, even more so to soak in inspiration: the energy, the people, and the designers shaping the city's identity in fresh, unexpected ways. Some have been on my radar for a while; others felt like revelations this season—but all capture the city’s unequaled pulse in the most wearable way.
New York style is a paradox I’ll never get tired of. It’s practical but never boring, effortless but intentional. The city itself demands a certain kind of fashion logic—something that works for the subway, a dinner in the West Village, an impromptu gallery visit in Tribeca, and—in this case—weathering a snowstorm, all in the same day. The best-dressed New Yorkers have mastered this balance: refined but lived-in. While the big names at NYFW delivered their usual spectacle that fits NYC style (think pageboy caps at Khaite, perfectly slouched leather jackets at several shows, and unexpected layering that looks thrown together but is actually just right), it’s the newer, independent brands that truly understand the art of wearability with an edge.
Rùadh
Rùadh is one of those brands that immediately stopped me in my tracks. What looks like a simple silhouette from afar becomes something completely different up close—that became clear when visiting their showroom in Tribeca. It was the Quin jean (a straight-leg design with just the right amount of bagginess) and the denim jackets that caught my eye. The quality is undeniable, with natural, ethically sourced materials that elevate even the most understated pieces (like this Orbital cotton top in cream and brown and the Scott cotton zip-up sweater). Rooted in founder Jac Cameron’s Scottish heritage, Rùadh, meaning ‘red’ in Gaelic, symbolizes beauty and strength. These striking, simple yet innovative silhouettes make everyday dressing feel quietly confident and subtly extraordinary.
Diotima
From a 40th-floor showroom in FiDi, with sweeping views over the East River, I was first introduced to Diotima. The brand, founded by Rachel Scott in 2021, is redefining Caribbean craftsmanship in contemporary fashion. Her signature crochet work (drool over this Drift crochet cotton halter top, on sale now, and paneled crochet and stretch-knit maxi dress) is breathtaking up close; the pieces are so delicate yet architectural, playing with the contrast between fluidity and form (see this ritual crochet-trimmed gathered cotton-poplin midi shirt dress and embroidered gathered cotton-poplin blouse). But what makes Diotima stand out for me is its attitude. There’s a sensuality in the way Scott deconstructs her pieces, balancing structured suiting with openwork knit dresses that feel both powerful and poetic. Her designs don’t just celebrate heritage; they push it forward.
Fforme
Fforme’s quiet luxury isn’t about trends—it’s about silhouette, proportion, and fabric in a way that feels almost meditative. The sleekness, while having a literal rough edge, was what struck me the most this season. Every piece felt so considered, from the way the dresses draped over the model’s body to the precision in the tailoring. Fforme is the kind of brand that doesn’t demand attention but commands it anyway. The luxurious materials, perfectly cut shapes, and tassel details (seems the tassel isn’t going anywhere soon) make even the simplest outfit feel like a statement. This is minimalism at its best—thoughtful, wearable, and undeniably elegant. The Mattie silk-crepe maxi dress, Scudder stretch-jersey maxi dress and Black Shim cropped jersey slim pants (also in brown) and Dayne cotton wide-leg pants (on sale) are my currently available favorites.
Kallmeyer
If you’ve ever wanted to bottle the energy of a downtown woman who looks impeccably cool, yet as though she barely tried—Kallmeyer is it. Daniella Kallmeyer’s brand embodies the kind of New York polish that’s both effortless and deliberate. What I love most about Kallmeyer is how she balances the cool and the classic (like this SS’25 Naia draped cotton-blend top, Gemini pinstriped wool-twill blazer, and Esme tuxedo shirt). The silhouettes never feel rigid, and the pieces are designed to be worn your way. The tailoring is impeccable—razor-sharp jackets and fluid trousers that instantly make you look put-together—while maintaining an effortless ease throughout. On this trip, I got my hands on their playground-inspired T-shirts from the Resort 25 collection, layered over each other, inspired by Saoirse Ronan's look from a while ago.
Bode
Although this brand didn’t technically show during NYFW, they debuted their Spring 2025 collection in New Orleans just before the Super Bowl, which took place during fashion week. Bode is hardly an underground name, but every season, Emily Adams Bode Aujla continues to surprise me. Every single piece carries a sense of nostalgia, but never feels predictable. Her use of intricate handwork, heirloom-like embroidery, and structured-yet-effortless tailoring feels personal—like stepping into someone’s cherished memories. Some Bode favorites include the Willows crocheted cotton top (also in brown), blue Regatta stripe pyjama pants, white brunch shorts, and the off-white & black satin gym shorts.
Colleen Allen
Colleen Allen takes technical precision to another level. Her work is experimental but never unwearable. Think urban utility, drapey details, and a kind of dreamlike style that still feels rooted in reality (like these SS’25 gathered cotton bloomer shorts, cotton-poplin cropped top, red gathered cotton -jersey cropped pants, and ruched-waist cotton-blend maxi dress). Her ability to take classic silhouettes and twist them into something unexpected is what makes her one of the most exciting designers right now. It’s tough but refined, structured but never stiff—exactly the kind of fashion that thrives in New York.
These designers prove that great style isn’t just about what makes a statement on the runway; it’s about what speaks to the rhythm of the city itself. If you’re ready to invest in pieces that capture the true essence of NYC, now might be the time—many standout styles are in their final sale rounds on Net-a-Porter, Luisaviaroma (take an extra 25% off already discounted items with code FR25), Mytheresa, Farfetch and Ssense.
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Loved this, very inspiring 🤍